Saturday, March 3, 2012

Village Immersion


In a plastic picnic chair I sit, basking in the shade of the community center where our group was welcomed a week ago to the small village of Agualongo. The constant base beat of music remains in the distance, chattering Quichwa voices, stomping of men shuffling above as they replace the roof, women cooking Guniea Pig outside the window and children playing hand games with our students. This is our last day in our home-stay community where we have been welcomed as family, today we have helped to transport tiles and poles for today's Minga. Every Saturday in Ecuador communities often participate in a community project, each family is expected to be present, in fact if they do not send someone from the family they can be fined. During the week the women stay home with children and the men are away working. Our house is a whirlwind with nine kids from ages one to nineteen looked after by Laura our smiley and upbeat host mother, her quite and humble husband Alfredo works at the cement plant over the hill. It is Saturday when families spend time together, and it is Saturdays when the men continue to work hard and the women fill their roles of cooking for the community. Yesterday three of the women we have been working with slaughtered, plucked and gutted nearly ten “Qui” and today we have been roasting them along with ava beans, potatoes and corn (or “choclo”).

Set back in the horseshoe of a small and flourishing valley our humble village is made up of some twenty families. The lifestyle is rural, traditional and completely indigenous. There is a palpable difference in Ecuador between the Mestizo culture (that of mixed race between Spanish and native) and the Indigenous groups, the main difference at first glance is the dress. The mestizos walk with their heads high and proud, they are well dressed, women strut in tight jeans and revealing shirts. They own the property, the wealth, the clout, and they have for generations. The indigenous walk with the world on their shoulders and the sun stained on their cheeks. The women wear black velvet toed slip on shoes, a simple wool skirt to their ankles, wrapped tightly around their waste with an embroidered two inch belt, topped with a white lacy blouse daintily stitched with colorful flowers. On their wrists, orange beads, on their neck several gold strands, in their hair a pony-tail wrapped with a mini version of their belt, on their head- either a felt hat, or folded piece of fabric. This is ubiquitous. They step off the sidewalks for the Mestizos, they carry their babies on their back, bring their cows to pastures and often walk many miles from their rural villages to town. We have had the rare chance to live in their homes, cook over their wood stoves, wrap their children's pony-tails, learn their language and share in a cultural exchange unlike any I have experienced.

For Science we have gardened with the women and worked with a local tree nursery, for Language class we learned Quichwa for several hours, for History we learned from the locals of how they attained land, how they sustain education, their rights to water and lasting remnants of the encomienda industry, Spanish ownership over the native indigenous populations. Between working with The Tandana Foundation and having a school curriculum on the road, traveling becomes much more alive and robust, we are able to dive into juicey conversations and learn things otherwise may remain under the surface of a typical adventure or vacation. Tomorrow we leave for the rainforest! Thankful for cultural interaction and lively Spanish conversations! Sending love and warmth home!